![]() ![]() I was wrong, as I discovered after perhaps the fourth bite. After a bite or two, I thought the dish stopped just short of spectacular. The chicken Sorrentino ($18) seduces with so much flavor that it's the epitome of guilty pleasure on a plate. I wouldn't have objected if he had paired the cigars with a sauce that had more character than the tahini sauce. Shraby doesn't come across as the kind of chef who breaks promises, and he certainly didn't fall flat with his ground spare ribs wrapped in phyllo dough. Phyllo dough-wrapped anything promises to be tasty, although if the phyllo dough isn't perfectly baked or fried, the promise can fall flat. The soup was steeped with rich flavor and topped with thick, gloriously gooey cheese that defied being spooned into any semblance of lady-like pieces. However, the French onion soup ($8) and spare rib cigars ($6) led astray my friend Janet and me. ![]() There was nothing on the list of hors d'oeuvres that was easily ignored, especially moules a la Provencale ($9) and oysters Rockefeller ($10). Both rather cannily catch the diner off-guard. The restaurant's Mediterranean menu is classic, not trendy. Until, and if ever, he makes the move to Louisville, think of Olive Leaf Bistro as a little gem with a city view. If Olive Leaf were located on one of Louisville's main food corridors, such as Frankfort Avenue, Market Street or Bardstown Road, Shraby would be fawned over and a reservation at his restaurant would be one of the hottest tickets in town. Shraby and Olive Leaf Bistro are celebs in the making. But, in all candor, Jeffersonville hasn't been known as a stage for impressive food performances. ![]() I have nothing against the city or its food. I grew up in Jeffersonville and graduated from Indiana University. But Soufflé was about much more than soufflés, as is his restaurant, Olive Leaf Bistro, located on the riverfront in Jeffersonville. That must have been a blow to New Jersey, but it was a stroke of good fortune for us.Ĭhef Jimmy Shraby loved soufflés so much and was so expert at making them that he named his restaurant in Summit, N.J., Soufflé. Who's counting? One of the best things it had going for it packed up his bags and moved south. There are many fine things one can say about New Jersey. ![]()
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